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Light Straw-clay
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Michael G. Smith has a background in environmental engineering, ecology, and sustainable resource management. In 1993, along with Ianto Evans and Linda Smiley, he started the Cob Cottage Company, a research and teaching group focused on reviving and improving traditional forms of earthen construction. He is the author of The Cobber's Companion: How to Build Your Own Earthen Home (Cob Cottage Co., 1998) and co-author of The Art of Natural Building: Design, Construction, Resources (New Society, 2002) and The Hand-Sculpted House: A Practical and Philosophical Guide to Building a Cob Cottage (Chelsea Green, 2002). He teaches practical workshops and provides consultation to owner-builders on a wide variety of natural building techniques, site selection, and design. He lives in an intentional community in Northern California.

Q: My question is about Light Straw-Clay. I am building a timber structure and I am going to do Light Straw-Clay infill. I attended one of 2 of your workshops and have a question as to how long I should let the clay slip straw sit around before tamping into forms. And should I use green or dried branch supports inside the walls?

A: The slip-coated straw can either be packed immediately into the wall cavity, or else left to set up for up to 24 hours. This supposedly helps the clay soak into the straw so the wall will hold together better, but I have not noticed that it makes a huge difference. In any case you want to keep the coated straw well covered so that it doesn't dry out, or you will need to moisten it again before packing it into the wall.

As far as the horizontal pins go, I have used both green and dry, both with good results. Probably dry is better so you introduce less moisture and movement into the wall as it dries. On the other hand, you want the sticks to be quite flexible, not brittle, or they may break when you tamp straw-clay over them.

Q: We are thinking about building a post and beam straw bale house and we are looking at options for the interior walls. Light straw-clay sounds like it could be a good option. Could it be built on a traditionally framed floor?

A: Yes, certainly. Light straw-clay can be built as a conventionally-framed stud wall with straw-clay infill. It is a bit heavier than a standard wall with fiberglass insulation and sheetrock, but not terribly so.

Drywall is such a pain to work with and we want something that will give a similar look to the exterior walls. Would it work OK for bathroom walls? I am assuming you couldn't have plumbing or electric inside the wall.

Sure you can put plumbing and electricity through a light straw-clay wall. There are some special considerations, but it can be done easily enough. As far as bathrooms go, I would recommend a lime plaster to protect the straw from moisture. I have a wet sauna with lime-plaster over light straw walls and there have been no problems so far with moisture.

 

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I specifically disclaim any warranty, either expressed or implied, concerning the information on these pages. Neither I nor any of the advisor/consultants associated with this site will have liability for loss, damage, or injury, resulting from the use of any information found on this, or any other page at this site. Kelly Hart, Hartworks, Inc.

 

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